In astonishingly simple terms, there are 3 general strategies employed. You need to be able to hop between game plans almost instantly as the course of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This consists of assembling a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at a minimum as deep as you are able to achieve, to lock in your opponent’s checkers that are on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most adequate course of action at the start of the game. You can assemble the wall anyplace inbetween your eleven-point and your 2-point and then shift it into your home board as the game advances.
The Blitz
This consists of locking your home board as quickly as as you can while keeping your challenger on the bar. e.g., if your opposer rolls an early 2 and moves one piece from your 1-point to your 3-point and you then roll a 5-5, you are able to play six/one six/one eight/three eight/three. Your competitor is then in serious trouble because they have 2 pieces on the bar and you have closed half your inner board!
The Backgame
This course of action is where you have two or higher anchors in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor spot is a position consisting of at least 2 of your checkers.) It should be employed when you are extremely behind as it greatly improves your circumstances. The better places for anchor spots are towards your competitor’s smaller points and either on abutting points or with a single point separating them. Timing is integral for an effectual backgame: at the end of the day, there is no reason having 2 nice anchors and a complete wall in your own inner board if you are then required to break up this straight away, while your opposer is shifting their checkers home, taking into account that you don’t have any other additional pieces to move! In this situation, it is more favorable to have pieces on the bar so that you might preserve your position up until your opposer provides you an opportunity to hit, so it will be a wonderful idea to try and get your opponent to hit them in this case!